I like the feeling of being on the road. Leaving the daily life behind and never know what will happen next. Like Forrest Gump's mom always said, "life is like a box of chocolates; you never know what you're gonna get." And after eating all those chocolates, you get to hang onto the memories of their flavors. In my box of chocolates, there is one that belongs to Tibet; a piece that has full aroma of buttered tea. The moment I touch it, chanting falls upon my ears bringing me back to that holy land.

Lhasa, the capital of Tibet Autonomous Region, treasures its name meaning the Holy Land or Land of Buddha in local language. It's a place that far beyond my conventional imagination.

"Traveling in Tibet is like your body going down to the hell while your eyes going up to the heaven." It's a sentence I read from a book and it is just what I have experienced. Only one hour after I stepped on the land, I was hit down by the 3680 kilometers' altitude. Dizziness, headaches, poor breathing… It is the process that every visitor has to experience, like a purifying process, from body to spirit.

Nothing to hurry, no important appointment to keep, I slackened my speed to feel the city's pulse, strolling along the main street where the Potala Palace stands quietly on my right side. Looking forward, the fiery setting sun drew a golden edge around the snowcapped mountains at the end of the street and gradually died away. Loyalty disciples still swayed their prayer wheels and murmured sutras while walking around the Potala Palace. The stone-paved road had been brightened by thousands of disciples, who laid down their whole bodies and kowtowed.

I was curious about what they prayed for, for their own health or prosperity? What has made them so strong-willed, so insisting to kowtow a long way instead of walking or riding to Lhasa?

Basang, the humorous singing driver, left precious jewels in my memory to Tibet, like the hazelnuts on the chocolate. It was him that made me understand more about Tibetan people.

Riding in a jeep, we were heading forward as usual. Basang suddenly slowed down and we saw a wild dog dragging a tiny lamb cross the road. We were all sighing for the pity lamb while Basang stopped and got off running to save the little lamb. I was stunt by the scene. Then I recalled Basang once told me every living creature was equal to Tibetan people. To save a lamb is equaled as to saving a man. But for us, spending too much time in icy reinforced concrete buildings, a merciful heart stops at a string of thought. We wouldn't stop our step to help others, to say nothing of animals.

The mountainous road is really bumpy and dust is blowing everywhere. Far away there are grey valleys, exposed rocks and the Yalu Tsangpo River running along at the foot of the mountain. On the other side of the river is a mass of boundless green shrubs.

Samye Monastery, located in the quiet mountainous area of the Shannan Region, not far from Lhasa, the first temple in Tibet.

I got there on March 30 in the Tibetan calendar and there was a Buddhist ritual underway. My Tibetan friend told me that it was a custom to hold rituals on that day.

"Every year many monasteries like Samye Monastery held Buddhist rituals to pray for a prosperous future. And many pilgrims will come from near and far."

A group of disciples following their master have traveled all the way from Xiamen in southern China to Samye, hoping to catch a glimpse of the real Buddha. Some even cried out when they saw the sculpture of Buddha.

"My aunt cried after seeing the Buddha. She was moved to tears. We took a four-hour bus ride and came here to make a pilgrimage." (girl)

The girl's name is Ding Ling and she is 14 years old. She told me she began to practice Buddhism when she was 10 years old under the influence of her mother.

"My mom asked the school to give me a leave and brought me here to see the people in Tibet. I feel free here. Today I''ll be converted to Buddhism and become a disciple of our Master together with the other group members. We've studied Buddhism under his instructions for many years. Every year he performs rituals in different areas of China."

Baima Yangpan, a Tibetan disciple of the master, explained the ritual to me.

"Today's ritual's host is Nima Jiasen, a Living Buddha. Every year he leads a group of his disciples from all over China to Samye Monastery on a pilgrimage. This year is the third year. He goes around China teaching Buddhism."

Among all the pilgrims, a young nun caught my eyes. She had a slim figure with tender skin and a pretty appearance, and I wanted to know why she became a nun.

"My name is Zhuoqin Daren from Deqin, a Tibetan area in Sichuan Province. I have believed in Buddhism for a long time but have worn the tonsure for only one year. I feel comfortable when studying Buddhism. Different people have different backgrounds so they make different choices."

She was not talkative. But I felt she was at peace when talking to her. Without money, fame and other achievements, her world is simple, pure and somehow more beautiful with only the holy Buddha in her heart.

I walked out and left the chanting behind. In front of me was a broad square with two high posts, from which hung colorful scripture texts. Sunshine lent a gilded edge to the grand halls. Behind me was a world of Buddhism, but I had to go back to my own world.

Sitting on the second floor of a Tibetan restaurant at a corner of the Bakhor street, annular street around Jokang Temple; enjoying some buttered tea and Zanba, the typical Tibetan staple, I kill my afternoon with watching people below, locals or tourists and collecting all my memories about this trip.

Twenty days in Tibet, I saw pure ever smiles, I talked with peddlers and herdsmen, I met pilgrims kowtowing all along to Lhasa, I got a Tibetan name Bianba Zhuomo…Everyday I was shocked and also encouraged by the scenery. I finally worked out that what they pray for. They are praying for others, not themselves. They believe that only they pray for the whole world, would they be blessed.

I believe, the strong attractions of Tibet not only lie in its endless snow mountains and spotless blue sky, but also relate to the people living there. It is the people that made this piece of land live and holy.

Author: He Fei       Date: Aug 12, 2007

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