The Chinese often refer to Sichuan as the "heavenly kingdom," a reference to its abundant resources and rich cultural heritage. If some higher power really had been partial to this fertile land, Jiuzhai Valley would certainly be the most beautiful gift it bestowed on the province.

Long ago, before the lumberjacks discovered it, this breathtaking alpine Eden was largely unknown to the outside world. The remoteness of the region and an underdeveloped transportation network have kept it pristine and largely beyond the bounds of tourism. But all of this has changed. After years of development, Jiuzhai Valley has become a world famous scenic spot that attracts millions of tourists every year.

I recently made the journey to Jiuzhai Valley, a place I had always dreamed of visiting.

Like every other tourist, I began my journey on an environmentally-friendly shuttle bus, the only vehicle permitted to run within the national park. I quickly devised an energy-efficient plan: to start at the furthest scenic site, and to make my way back to the valley gate on foot.

The bus rolled to a stop at the vast ancient forest at the top of Ri'ze Valley, known to locals as a "supernatural oxygen bar." Surrounded by the luxuriant green trees, walking on the thick lichen, and smelling the fragrant, damp air, I felt like I had entered an isolated new world. Densely spaced pines, oaks and spruces provided an emerald green backdrop to my view of the grand valley. In the distance, I could see the snow-capped mountains looming in vivid contrast to the green world in which I was standing.

During autumn, when the leaves on the trees turn red, the magnificent view of the mountains is breathtaking.

I inhaled the fresh air as deeply as I could while hiking deeper into the secluded woods. The gentle sound of nearby rushing water gradually rose to my ears.

People say resting alongside a stream is one of the most delightful experiences in Jiuzhai Valley. They are not mistaken. If you listen carefully, you can hear the water playing different tunes -- some in haste, some at ease, some cascading into magnificent waterfalls, and some babbling in brooks.

Shi Chuan, a visitor from Beijing, recounted her visits for me.

"Although I have been here many times, each time gives me a renewed sense of beauty. This time, I chose this coat especially for the trip. It's Chinese-style, bright red, and has hand-embroidered flowers and birds on it – it's very beautiful! This is how I feel about Jiuzhai Valley. I don't think I can really describe the beauty in words, not even in a poem, a painting or a song."

There is an old saying that "No other mountain is worth seeing after you have seen Mount Huangshan, and no other water will interest you after you have visited Jiuzhai Valley.

I was impressed by the power of nature when I laid eyes on the pride of Jiuzhai Valley, the beautiful Five-Flower Lake, which lies at the end of the upper reaches of the Peacock River. The lake is so named for the colorful leaves that accumulate on the lakefront, interlaced like fine brocades. The water contains calcium carbonate as well as hydrophytes, so colors like azure, inky green and pale yellow swirl together, adding to the overall effect. The local people told me that Five-Flower Lake is a holy lake, for where the water runs, there must be flourishing trees and flowers.

But others say that while Jiuzhai Valley may be a heaven for many, including photographers, it is a hell for others, such as painters. On the banks of Five-Flower Lake, I encountered one brave soul, Zhou Changxing, who dared try to capture the lake's beauty on canvas.

"Just now, a tourist told me Jiuzhai Valley is a hell for painters, but I would say it is a paradise for masters. The rich colors here strike me deeply, and the waters inspire me. I mean, where else can you find beauty like this? The colors and light are ever-changing. If you are not skilled enough, you won't capture the beautiful moments, but I believe I can do it! This series of paintings is supposed to be exhibited next year in Beijing as a gift for the 2008 Olympics."

The waters of Jiuzhai Valley are widely known for their purity, and local people are fighting to maintain the primitive scenery as tourism encroaches on the area.

Most tourists attempt to capture the dreamlike scenery with their cameras. Li Xinchuan, from south China's Guangdong province, shared his impressions about Jiuzhai Valley.

"My last visit here was more than ten years ago, but I would say it's more beautiful now! Last time, I spent three yuan, or about 40 US cents, to rent a horse, which I rode up to the mountain. But now, there are rails to protect the lawns, and there are plank paths built along the cliffs. More importantly, the water is as pure as before. People have done a good job protecting the place!"

Jiuzhai Valley is also a land of waterfalls. Here you can find the broadest waterfall in China – the Nuorilang Waterfall. The water flows down from a great height like a huge sheet of silver silk. Under the illumination of the rising sun, rainbows appear on top of the waterfall.

Nuorilang means "grand and magnificent" in Tibetan. The strong current washing over the cliff drops some 30 meters down before splitting off into a number of spectacular waterfalls of various shapes and sizes. Some of the water drops straight to the ground; in other places, it dashes against protruding rocks midway, exploding into millions of tiny, colorful water beads.

As a first time visitor, the sight of the magnificent waterfall made my heart pound. Regev, a tourist from Israel, could hardly hide his excitement from me.

"It's one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to in my whole life. What's special about Jiuzhaigou is you can see lakes, mountains, and red, green and orange trees altogether. And then you see the snowy mountain, and the lake is also really special and colorful."

When night falls, Jiuzhai Valley becomes more mysterious and charming as Tibetan singers and dancers take to the stage. The "Red Cheeks on the Plateau" and "Jiuzhai Paradise" are among the better-known performance troupes in the area. After the show, spectators can enjoy an authentic Tibetan Guozhuang dance by the glowing fireside.

Jiuzhai Valley has long been inhabited by Tibetan ethnic group. However, the language, dress and customs of Tibetans living in Jiuzhai Valley differ significantly from those of Tibetans living in neighboring areas. Nine Tibetan villages are scattered around the valley here, but only three are currently open to tourists.

Jiuzhai Valley has found no equal anywhere in the world. As the only Chinese scenic spot listed as both a World Heritage Site and part of the World Biosphere Reserve, Jiuzhai Valley is welcoming and embracing more and more tourists who come to explore its unique charms.

Author: Dandan     Date: Feb 4, 2007

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